From Malmo in Sweden to Athens in Greece by Train

 

Why Train?

Well, why not? It’s not only about the rising temperatures, the wild weather turbulence and the weakening of the biodiversity from amongst other than the climate change that’s the backdrop for choosing to take the train instead of flying. It’s the challenge. Sometimes I like challenges, other times I’ll choose the convenient way. I guess I do rightfully so feel a bit guilty about flying to Athens in February, as well as I’d like to prove to myself I can DO it. Taking the train that is.

Sam Brodkin -what life is in the year 2284

 

Tågsemester (Trainvacationing) at Facebook

Asking in the train travelling sect Tågsemester (Trainvacationing) at Facebook is always a risk, but most often you’ll get amazing assistance. And as well as I easily get started when encountered with impertinence, I’m even more grateful that the sect is available. Tågsemester started by Susanna Elfors and Andreas Sidkvist in 2018 from frustration due to it being so difficult to travel in Europe with train, this while it’s no longer a well kept secret that climate change IS happening. Tågsemester on Facebook certainly filled a void. It went from ca 15K members to (2024) more that 264K members. That’s ca 2% of Swedens entire population. Thank you Susanna Elfors and Andreas Sidkvist.

 

Fly Shame & Train Bragging

Another amongst many lovely consequences from the start and rise of Tågsemester is the phenomenon from shame of flying to boasting about train riding. I was actually clueless to the fact that this is a movement starting in Sweden, but I will happily admit it makes me very proud. This little country known for the zipper, refrigerators, burning the koran and beautiful women is also the origin of the Boost Your Train Riding. Again, thanks to Susanna Elfors and with unexpected assistance of Greta Thunberg. Who also took a catamaran across the Atlantic ocean to speak at the UN assembly in NYC. All documented in Nathan Grossmans impressive portrait I am Greta.

Become a train boaster by New York Times
Train bragging by Country Living
Train bragging by National Post Canada
Flight shame in Sweden by The World
The story of sustainable tourism
Green Swedes shun holiday flights

 

Train Routes from Sweden to Greece

It doesn’t matter if you ask for a train route from Malmö, Sweden through the Balkans to Athens, Greece, people will still ONLY give you the route through Italy with a ferry over to Greece. It all makes sense. But I really really wanted to try the Balkan side of Europe. One major but though, it’s very difficult going by train all the way. And even more so, there is no train travel agency that can make the reservations for you al the way. I used Trainplanet, and they helped me with reservations all the way to Budapest🙏. From there on, I was by myself💪.

 

Malmo to Berlin with Snalltaget by Night

If possible, I’ll always try to go by Berlin since my ex husband lives there, as well as I’m learning to like the vibe more by every time I stop by. It’s a rough unruly place in a most regulated and in many ways well functioning country. And best of all, you can go by night. And that’s the main plan, travelling lying down. As well as trying to sleep, which I’m not scoring completely on all night routs. But I’m still up to the challenge. As well as you all understand that lying down is way less challenging than sitting up during this major 2800 kilometer distance.

Did I mention Sally yet? No, I didn’t, but here she is 🚲. I’m always travelling with a bicycle. This time it’s my grey B-fold from Decathlon, and it’s usually her that comes with me. But not always. She’s a most loyal companion, and she travels in her own assigned transporter bag. Tucked in under the ladder, or half way under the bottom bed in the sleeper car.

I spend a day in Berlin. Cosy cafe breakfast, spring is on it’s way and it gives me plenty of energy to ride around looking for street art before dinner with my ex and my next night train to Vienna, Austria. By now, large trainstations doesn’t stress me quite as much anymore since I’ve got myself a train riding habit if going somewhere in Europe. It’s even quite enjoyable with few exceptions.

 

 

En uteservering i Berlin.
En fasadmålning i Berlin.
David och Felicia i Berlin.
En resecykel och ryggsäck på huvudtågstationen i Berlin.
En tysk kaffelatte.
En kullerstensgata med vårblomning i Berlin.
En fasadmålning föreställande tallar i Berlin.
En sovkupe på ett tåg från Berlin till Wien.

 

Vienna in Austria to Budapest in Hungary

I’ve planned it so I don’t have to rush while changing trains, it kills everything. Especially since I carry Sally as well. In Vienna I just get a two hour break from trains. In Budapest I also need to get my additional train reservation by myself. Since I’m travelling off season and my two hours + in-between trains is plenty of time to queue by the counter for my reservation to my next night train. As well as a much needed hour of exercise and some fresh air. As always I praise my foldable bicycle Sally for the joy and freedom she brings to out travels together ❤️.

 

Budapest in Hungary to Bucharest in Romania

Is a whole other story… by now I mentally transfer from curious about how a train ride all the way from Malmo Sweden to Athens Greece is going to be, to proud of my good spirits and mood. Possibly to prepare myself for a 17!! hour long train ride. Meaning I will have to sit for hours, before I can lay down and try to master sleeping on the train. Not only do I indulge in a most delicious meal, I also stock up on water and some fruits and nuts before embarking on my next train.

 

Meals on Trains

Do NOT wing it. Many trains do have a restaurant car, or a cart. But not all… and the 17 hour ride from Budapest to Bucharest did not. I always travel with some nutty bars, not rarely given as a token of care by my dear friend Zohreh, but still DO make sure you have water and some additional provisions.

 

 

En buss i Budapest i Ungern.
Tågstationen i Budapest.
En bäddad sovkupe på tåget från Budapest till Bukarest.
Turkiska ägg och yoghurt i Budapest i Ungern.
En sovkupe på tåget från Budapest till Bukarest.
Utsikten över ett grönt fält från ett tågfönster i Ungern.

 

Is Train Riding Inconvenient in Europe?

From proud of my mood after more than 21 000 kilometres by train, I now reach the next level… impressed by my mood and good spirit. Mind you I still havn’t had ONE single shower after leaving Malmo, Sweden. I don’t know if the lack or showering and not changing ones underwear ought to add anything to ones pride… But I ignore the lacking details and focus on my mood.

It’s quite common to hear people in general complain about the non impressive functionality and even more, the lack of punctuality with trains. To me that ride the train on most of my work related assignments in Sweden, as well as my private 5 hour commute inbetween my two home towns of Malmo to Stockholm as well as using the train for 85% of my travels for this blog, I have to disagree. Trains most often run on time, or with very few, and short delays. Knock on wood.

This being observed as well as experienced I DO understand that people that have another experience are annoyed. It’s just that I have another experience. And mind you I come from a country where we have a lot of “rail running”, meaning people cross the tracks for their own convenience, and without any consideration for the train driver or the passengers on the train. It varies from year to year, but ca 12 000 trains are delayed, and the delays add up to ca 4 000 hours due to this careless behaviour. On top of this, a fair amount of train drivers DO hit people on the tracks.

So far, the trains have been running beautifully.

 

 

Bucharest Hungary to Sofia Bulgaria

Not only another day train, it also includes changing the train in Russe on the border of Rumania and Bulgaria. That WAS stressful. For two reasons, one being that we were for the first time on this journey running a bit late. The border staff came to collect our passports, while it to me wasn’t really clear if they were the immigration. It didn’t appear that official to me. They just stacked all of our passports and left. This at the same time as I didn’t really know if the new train was going to wait. The cream on top was the offer from a 20 year younger man, to stay over att his house instead of continuing to Sofia… Yeah, right.

While being stressed over not knowing as well as parting with my passport, the friendly atmosphere on the platform (including the above generous… offer to stay overnight in Russe) was so very nice. The immigration returned after 20 minutes and called out each and everyones name to return our documents, and off we went.

 

Remnants of the Communist Era in Europe

Or at least in parts of Europe, the part that I’m now travelling through is highly under developed in regards to the general European standard. I have no degree in political science, but I grew up in Sweden during the 70’s & 80’s where we were in parts still impressed with the DDR method of running a society, meaning the communist way. Needless to say, in a democracy (still…) like Sweden you were allowed to have another opinion than the communist one, unlike in Stasis East Germany before the tearing of the Berlin wall in 1989.

When I took a bicycle ride to exercise and restock in Bucharest it was clear that the countrys management we’re poor in terms of keeping up the buildings in the center of town. Of course it’s not necessairily the countrys managements task to maintain buildings. But them being severely mismanaged is a sign of other things not being tended to. Since I like buildings, it’s a bit sad to me. 

Taking the train trough both Romania as well as Bulgaria we passed to many station buildings with no windows or roofs. This while a uniformed station agent always appeared with his “stick”. It looked to say the least very sweet. My Bulgarian Airbnb host in Sofia said that the Romanian state railway company is one of the countrys largest employer.

 

En förfallen byggnad i centrala Bukarest i Rumänien
En förfallen tågstation i Bulgarien.

 

No Trains to Greece from Bulgaria

Yes, that’s sadly the case. The’re suspended with no further notice, regardless of online info about trains from Sofia to Thessaloniki. So I’ve got to take the bus from Sofia to Thessaloniki in nothern Greece where I can continue my journey by train.

Not only are there no trains from Sofia, I arrive after the last bus going to Greece has departed. Which means I’ll sleep in a bed, as well as being able to have my first shower in 3+ days. It’s going to be heaven. But no… my very nice and… handsome Airbnb host like to talk. When one of the few remaining real hosts at Airbnb (meaning the ones that havn’t bought a place only to rent) is present and a talkative host, I’ll politely listen. It started with his love for the Swedish pop group ABBA, to how Bulgarian Turks are a discriminated minority in Bulgaria, him being one of them.

When he was done telling me the history of Eastern Europe, I was exhausted. Not by him and his history lesson, but by a long day. No shower for me. Until in the morning, and I can’t begin to tell you how happy a much longed for shower can make a person. Yes, you assume correctly, I became almost an entirely new person.

 

En blond kvinna med glasögon.
En grön spårvagn i Bulgariens huvudstad Sofia.

 

Sofia in Bulgaria

I’ve been once before, many many years ago and during completely different circumstances. At the time I didn’t like it at all. I actually have no communist leadership or remaints of communist dictatorship appreciation. Regardless of if it’s behaviour or mismanaged buildings and infrastructure. But this time, Sofia made me curious, and I’ll actually consider coming back to stay at least two days just to discover Sofia. As well as eating turkish food.

While waiting for my bus to leave for Thessaloniki and Greece I was fascinated by the surrounding environment.

 

Busstationen i Sofia i Bulgarien.

 

Thessaloniki

The last time was after a long transport through the Balkans on my first Interrail, and just before the tearing of the Berlin wall. As well as just before the war in former Yogoslavia in 1989. At the time I found the people in Thessaloniki to be so very nice. And they spoke excellent english. Very few people in the Balkans spoke any english at the time. The lack of a common language can be quite interesting and fun, but it’s also a bit tiresome. So your first encounter with a fluent common language is such a welcome blessing.

This time, I’m equally struck by the Thessalonikian friendliness. But not really a common language. Still, it didn’t matter. I had an hour + before my train to Athens was leaving, and while sitting down outside with my burger I was immediately talked to by a lovely woman. Me speaking english, and her few words of english and a lot of smiles. It was so very sweet ❤️.

 

Train from Thessaloniki to Athens

Due to a major storm, the rails in between Thessaloniki and Athens were severely damaged in 2023, but had now been restored and I was able to take my last 5 hour stretch by train. I was soooo happy about almost being in Athens. And look at the cool train cars. I’m so very ready for the blue and white ☀️

 

En en grekisk tågvagn med grafiskt blåvitt mönster.
En en grekisk tågvagn med grafiskt blåvitt mönster på en perrong med bagage i förgrunden.

 

I’m a Proud Train Trooper

Yes, I’ve finally reached Athens. By train. On the Balkan side.

I’m so very proud of myself, most because of me still being in an excellent mood after this long journey. Unfortunately I’ve also got to admit that I 100% understand that people fly 3 1/2 hours instead of 4 nights and 4 days of travelling. But if you consider taking the train, just DO it!! And I do hope you’ll feel as good about yourself as I do, and did. Everything ran so very smoothly, including the passport control in Russe, Romania.

 

Tågspår in till Aten, från längst bak i tåget.
En svensk kvinna med en greisk tågvagn i bakgrunden på en tågperrong i Aten.
Platsbiljetter för tågresor mellan Malmö och Aten genom Europa på Balkansidan.